SECTION 2
kNITTING TECHNIQUES
JERSEY
• Most common
• Single bed
• Very stable
• Also know as plain knit, fastest basic knit, smooth flat surface and textured back,
• Lightweight
1x1 all-needle rib
• Aka full-needle rib
• Compact double-faced jersey
• Two smooth sides
• More structure and stability than single jersey
RIBS
• Double bed
• Reversible
• Distinct vertical ridges on both sides.
• Highly elastic
• Excellent shape retention
1X1 RIB
• Aka half-gauge rib
2-IN 1-OUT
• Tighter and more elastic fabric than 2-in 2-out needle set,
• Applied to waistband, hem and cuff
• More common option for 2x2 rib
2-IN 2-OUT
• Looser structure than 2-in 1-out and the width is broader
• Used when a looser body, hem and cuff is preferred.
SIMPLE RIB
• "narrow rib."
• Single-rib wale with any number of consecutive plain wales,
• E.g. 3x1, 4x1, 6x1, …
BROAD RIB
• Any number of consecutive rib wales
• E.g. 6x3 (Derby rib), 10x2, …
TUBULAR
• Double bed
• Reversible
• Seamless, cylindrical knit
• Structurally stable and resilient
• Used for trims, collars and cuffs in knitwear.
OTTOMAN
• Roll welt, English welt, and ripple.
• Double bed
• Not reversible
• A distinct horizontal cord pattern
• Created by selective knitting and missing at the back of the welt
HALF MILANO
• Aka semi-double knit
• Double bed
• An imbalanced rib-based jersey-like structure
• Used for plackets
FULL MILANO
• Aka double knit
• Double bed
• Double-faced compact knit with smooth surface
• High density, great stability, durability, and less elasticity Front and back are the same
PONTE DI ROMA
• Double bed
• Double-knit interlock-based construction
• Combining tubular and interlock structure
• Stability and firmness with subtle horizontal ridges
• Front and back are the same
HALF CARDIGAN
• Aka English rib
• Double bed
• Modified form of coarsely knitted rib
• Heavier structure and soft handle
• For clothing requiring extra bulkiness.
• High elasticity
FULL CARDIGAN
• Aka polka rib
• Like half cardigan but reversible
• Knitted in a coarser gauge
• Ideal for cozy, warm garments
• High elasticity
• Reversible
• Double bed
INTERLOCK
• Essentially two rib knits interlocked
• A fabric with two smooth sides and a firm handle.
• Often produced in a medium to fine gauge
• Double bed
• Reversible
• Stable
LINKS LINKS
• Double bed
• Reversible
• This delicate pattern forms in a series of purl-stitch ridges and
knit-stitch troughs often used for borders and lace edges.
LINKS LINKS VARIATIONS
• Double bed
• Often presented in a droplet-like pattern
• Stable
MOSS STITCH
• The most popular of the broken-rib-texture patterns, • Often used with cable patterns
• Gives a pleasing nubby effect when used in large areas.
SEED STITCH
• Frequently used for borders and for a speckled texture effect.
DOUBLE SEED STITCH
• Used in place of plain stockinette
• For almost any type of knitwear.
TUCK
• Combines a 1x1 base with a tuck in single jersey structure, creating a textured surface with a cross or diamond pattern.
• Back and front are different
• Curls on single bed
• Single and double bed
PLAIN PIQUE
• Aka single pique, cross-tuck pique, single cross tuck
• This fabric is durable and breathable
• Suitable for functional apparel.
DOUBLE PIQUE
• Aka double cross tuck, double lacoste
• It is usually used to create unique coloration and subtle patterns.
LACOSTE
• 1X1 cross-over tuck
• A honeycomb-textured structure commonly used for polo shirts.
FLOAT
• Knitting skip loops
• Creates a texture or pattern with varied placement and length of float yarn • Single or double bed
• Not reversible
• Low elasticity
RACKED STITCH
• Double bed
• Zigzag structure
• Herringbone-like pattern created by one lateral moving needle bed. • Low elasticity
AJOUR
• Aka eyelet, petinet
• An open, net-like knit created by arrangement of tuck and transfer stitches, resulting in different crochet, lace patterns
• Reversible
• Less durable
• Single or double bed
CABLE
• Thick due to raised knitted texture.
• Not reversible
JACQUARD
• Multicoloured pattern
• Low-elasticity
• Double and single bed
FLOAT JACQUARD
• Aka single jacquard
• Low elasticity
• Low durability
• Single bed
• Floats
DOUBLE BED JACQUARD
• Low elasticity
• Thick and heavy
• Double bed
• No floats
LADDERBACK JACQUARD
• Reduced float length
• Less thick than double bed
• Double bed
INTARSIA
• Blocks of colour without carrying yarns across the back • Allows complex pictorial designs
• Single bed
• Curls
• Not reversible
• Double bed
• More stable structure
• Reversible
INTARSIA
• Multi-colour
• Curls
• Not reversible
