Yarn Weight
Fine yarn
• Lightweight, drapey, soft, fluid drape
• Summer garments, delicate knitwear, next-to-skin layers
Medium yarn
• Balanced drape and structure, versatile
• Sweaters, cardigans, everyday wear
Thick yarn
• Strong presence, high warmth, sculptural, highlights stitches
• Outerwear, home textiles, cozy accessories
Yarn structure
Spinning Method
• Worsted:
Smooth, compact, durable
Tailored garments, fine knits
•Woolen :
Airy, lofty, warm, slightly fuzzy
Sweaters, cozy knitwear
Twist Level
• Low twist :
Softer, bulkier, less durable
Chunky knits, casual wear
• High twist :
Firmer, crisper, better stitch definition
Fine knits, tailored fabrics
Yarn structure
Fiber Length
• Long staple :
Smoother, stronger, silkier
Egyptian cotton, long wool
• Short staple :
Fuzzier, less durable
Regular cotton, short wool
Yarn Ends
• Single end
Softer, looser, may pill
Lightweight knits, scarves
• Multiple end
Stronger, rounder, smoother
Socks, durable fabrics
Hand feel
Soft vs. crisp
• Soft: cotton, cashmere, modal.
• Crips: linen, high-twist cotton, hemp.
Smooth vs. hairy
• Smooth: mercerised cotton, silk, synthetic filaments • Hairy: woolen-spun, mohair, alpaca
Elastic vs. firm
• Elastic: wool, spandex blends, high-twist yarn • Firm: linen, low-twist cotton, ramie
Warm vs. cool
• Warm: brushed wool, alpaca, cashmere
• Cool: linen, bamboo, mercerized cotton
Bulky vs. light
• Bulky: wool roving, chenille, bouclé
• Light: silk filament, fine cotton, microfibres
Yarn cost factor
YARN FINENESS
• Finer yarns = more labor-intensive and often higher cost;
• Thicker yarns = more economical, build fabric volume faster
YARN FINENESS
•Yarn cost is measured in weight
•Impact on transport cost, handling during production, … •Cotton is heavier than wool.
•Add synthetics to blends to make lighter and cheaper
Yarn sales conditions
Lead time
• Location / transport options
• Stock vs. custom
MOQ
• Stock vs custom
Pricing
• Yarn price
• Surcharges
• Handeling
• Quantities
• Development costs
Customizability
• Colour choice
• Yarn texture
Yarn pricing
PILLING GRADING
Certification
Skin safety
• OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, Bluesign
• Guarantees no harmful chemicals
Organic fibres
• GOTS, Organic Content Standard, USDA Organic • Transparency in organic sourcing
Animal welfare
• RWS, RMS, RAS
• Ethical sourcing, animal care
Sustainability (general)
• GOTS, GRS, FSC
• Reduces environmental footprint.
Recycled content
• GRS, RCS
• Traceability of recycled inputs.
Fair labour & ethics
• Fair Trade, GOTS, SA8000
• Meets social compliance standards.
Quality standard
• Woolmark, ISO 9001
• Ensure fibre purity (Woolmark) and consistent quality